This
section includes details of places close
to
the hearts of the McGinley clan
Muckish
Mountain
Muckish
mountain, or simply Muckish as it is known by the locals (An Mhucais
in Irish), was always a very special mountain. Since very early times
it was regarded as ‘holy’ by the local tribes, well before
the Christian period. The mountain is said to resemble a boar or pig
when it is lying down. The Old Irish word muc means a 'pig' while
the suffix ais is an ancient Pictish/Celtic ending associated with
'place'. It is easy to see why it would have been likened to a boar
or pig. The boar was an ancient Celtic warrior symbol. The beautiful
Muckish would have been visable on a daily basis to the Mag Fhionnaile/McGinley
clan as well as others in the greater north Donegal area. Its appearance
has not changed over the centuries and it is possible to imagine what
our ancestors looked at each day. Beautiful views of Muckish can be
got from Horn Head, a little to the north. Muckish rises to a height
of 666 metres. It is the most northerly summit in the Derryveagh mountain
range. The summit has a prehistoric cairn on it. All over the top
are strange brick shaped rocks that look like they have been dropped
from the sky. There is also a small igloo like structure and a few
smaller cairns to see. Dominating the whole view is a large cross
at one end of the mountain plateau. There are traditionally two routes
to take to get to the top. The first and easiest is located at 'The
Bridge of Sorrows' at Muckish Gap to the south west of Muckish. The
more difficult route can be found close to Creeslough village at the
north eastern end.
Ballyboes
Mass Rock
This important Mass Rock recalls the dire times when the Catholics,
and McGinleys, were not allowed to practise their religion by the
ruling English authorities. It is an integral and poignant spot for
all McGinleys, as it lies in the middle of our ancient territory.
It was a focal point for many other families of north Donegal as well.
From the early 1600’s until the beginning of the 1800’s
the Mass Rocks were a significant part of Irish culture. The Ballyboes
Mass Rock is in good condition and visited by many tourists each year.
It is known in Irish as Creag an Altóra, the Rock of the Alter.
At a specially held synod held by the bishops on February 19th 1614,
permission was officially granted allowing mass to be celebrated outdoors.
The hatred towards Catholics, especially Irish Catholics, by the English
Authorities was extreme to say the least. Even after the uplifting
of the severe laws against Catholic worship, locals continued to use
the Mass Rock. By then, after two hundred years, it had become part
of the culture. Today, a special mass is celebrated here once a year
at the end of August in remembrance of those who suffered for their
faith.
Tullaghobegly
Church
The
ancient church at Tullaghobegly was the main place of worship for
the people of the Tullaghobegly district and the wider Cloughaneely
area up until the early seventeenth century. This was where our clan
went for their worship. It is known, also, that people from the Gweedore
area sometimes used this church too. Today all that is left is a ruin
of a church and the old graveyard. The dead of much of north Donegal
beyond the Muckish and Errigal mountains were buried here until Catholics
were allowed to have new graveyards at Gortahork (1789) and at Magheragallon
(1765). In the year 1610 the church was taken from the Irish and put
into Protestant control. They used it as such until the roof collapsed
in 1834. Even though the Protestants took over, Catholics were still
allowed to bury their dead in the cemetry for years later. The adjacent
graveyard is said to be the oldest in the north of Donegal. Today,
the church ruin with the graveyard beside is to be found on slightly
raised ground with a panoramic view of the surrounding areas. According
to tradition, the Vikings landed at nearby Ballyness Bay and attacked
the church at Tullaghobegly attempting to steal gold and relics. Their
approach was noticed by the local people and a battle got under way
in which the Vikings were defeated. The slain Vikings are said to
have been buried at a spot near Rocktown called 'Reilig na Lochlainn'
(Graveyard of the Viking). Bearing in mind that this occurance happened
in known McGinley territory, it is possible that ancestors of the
McGinleys took part in this battle. We say ancestors, because at this
point in history the actual surname of McGinley had not been born!
Beside the church can be seen a small mound that was used, according
to local folklore, for the burial of unbaptised children. Alternatively,
the mound may be a pre-Christian site.
Ray
Church
The
ancient church situated at Ray was an important place of worship for
the McGinleys and other local clans. There is a small mound close
to the ancient graveyard. Tradition has it that this part was used
for unbaptised children. This mound may have previously been a pre-Christian
site of some importance. The church here used to be called St Fionnán's
Church and tradition tells us that St Fionnán was the founder
of the church sometime in the 6th century. The church at Ray, in ruins,
dates to sometime before the late 1500's, the exact date is in doubt.
Records show that it was still in use among the native people in 1609.
It was built on the site of a much earlier church going back many
centuries previously. Here we have an ancient stone cross called Cros
Cholm Cille, or in English St Colm Cille's Cross. Tradition has it
that this cross was cut out of a solid rock on the side of holy Muckish
mountain either at Maamcross or Brocas. The cross measures 21 ft long
by 7 ft wide. It fell during a terrible storm in 1750 and broke into
three parts. Local tradition tells us that the cross was originally
intended to be sighted on Tory island, but was presented to St Fionnán
by St Colm Cille after Fionnán found the misplaced holy book
of Colm Cille. However, experts date the cross a little later, to
about the late 800's or early 900's. The cross has, in recent years
been repaired and re-erected inside the church by the Irish Government.
The low point in the history of this holy place was the destruction
of the church and the massacre of the innocents by the English soldiers
in the 1600's. This incident is heavily etched on the memory of the
local people and is remembered as Marfach Ráithe - The Massacre
of Ray.
Birthplace
of Colmcille
The
most holy of Irish saints, Colm Cille was born in Gartan, Co Donegal
in the year 521 a.d. Gartan is a beautiful spot a few miles northwards
from the main Co Donegal town of Letterkenny. He is the patron saint
of all the Co Donegal clans. His birthplace is rightfully cherished
and respected by all Donegal clans including the Mag Fhionnaile clan.
According to medieval tradition, before Colm Cille was born, an Angel
directed that a particular flagstone which was by some miracle floating
on the nearby lake be taken to his mother, and that on this stone
she should give birth. During the birth, his mother bled heavily,
staining the earth, turning it red. Since then, the soil around Gartan
is revered as having special curative properties and protective powers,
especially against rats! This belief continued up until the 1960's.
The site of his birth is peaceful and not ‘overdeveloped’.
Today
the spot of his birth is marked with a large Celtic cross standing
in a small enclosure. Nearby can be found the ancient holy church
of this great Donegal saint together with a renowned old holy well.
Rathmullan
Priory
This
is the place where one of our early ancestors, Ciothruadh Mag Fhionnghail,
the noted monk and scribed, lived and worked during the year 1513
to 1514. He wrote various items for his patron Máire Mhic Shuibhne
(the wife of the Clan Chief of the MacSweeneys of Fanad) including
the Irish translation of the ‘Life of St Catherine of Alexandria’.
It was Máire who had the Priory built. It was to be an important
Carmelite House and a beacon of religious piety for the north west
of Ireland. The present structure is in a ruined state (heavily covered
in vines) in the heart of the village and is visited by many tourists
each year. It was first founded around the year 1508 but wasnt finished
until around 1516 (possibly even later). It was still in use in 1595
when we have record of the English leader George Bingham attacking
this sacred place. He stole the treasured Communian Plate as well
as other holy relics. After the Carmelites were kicked out, the Protestant
Bishop Knox took over the Friary and started to renovated part of
it to use as a private residence. The Rathmullan Carmelite Friary
has an east window (chancel) with a presumed figure of St Patrick
carved in stone above it.
The Bridge of Tears
Near
the holy mountain of Muckish in the district of Cloghaneely, there
is a small ancient stone bridge that is known locally as ‘The
Bridge of Tears’, from the Irish Gaelic Droichead na Caointe.
It is located at what is known as Muckish Gap. It was the custom,
from the start of the Plantation (1609) for departing family members
to accompany their loved ones as far as this bridge and then say their
goodbyes. The illegal Plantation of Ulster, instigated by the English
Government, caused many families to fragment. Some left to start a
new life elsewhere while many, usually the old or sick, would stay
behind. Many McGinleys, and other north Donegal families, would have
passed through this sad spot. Before the advent of the railway and
the building of modern roads, this route through Muckish Gap was just
about the only way to get to the south of Donegal and hence to Derry
for transport abroad. It was in the nineteenth century that the bridge
was most used as a ‘point of departure’. The Great Hunger
caused thousands to leave their native lands never to return. This
long walk to the bridge had all the finality of a funeral, as most
would never see their loved ones again. The town of Derry was the
destination for most. The port there could take them to England, Scotland,
America and Australia. There is a stone memorial placed at the bridge,
in Irish Gaelic. The English translation is as follows…..Friends
and relations of the person emigrating would come this far. Here they
parted. This is the Bridge of Tears.
The world reknowned poet, writer and artist Percy French was painting
around this area. He started up a conversation with an old woman,
according to local lore she was called McGinley or McGonigle. Her
children had all gone away and she remarked “T’was a lonely
land to live in when the children was away”. This sentence so
captivated Percy that, on returning to his accommodation in nearby
Falcarragh, that night he composed one of his most famous songs ‘The
Irish Mother’. The world famous Donegal folk group Clannad new
of the importance of this lonely bridge. It inspired them to record
the piece called ‘The Bridge of Tears’. It can be found
on their album ‘Landmarks’.
Other
places of interest to McGinleys are Glencolmcille. A beautiful valley
in the south west of Donegal, named after St Colm Cille. Legends and
devotions to him are widespread in the area. The area has many McGinleys
living there since around 1604 when they were displaced from the north
of the county. Also Templedouglas, near Letterkenny. Here is the site
of a medieval church, where an earlier church once stood. This was
the place where Colm Cille was baptised and educated by Cruithneachán.
PHOTOGRAPHS
OF DONEGAL
Here
are two photographs showing the different moods of Mount Errigal.
A popular tourist destination, Errigal rises to a height of 751 Metres
and is found to the western end of the Derryveagh mountain range.
Errigal is outwith the McGinley territory but can be seen from much
of it. The photograph on the left shows the beautiful Lough Nacung
in the foreground. The right hand photograph shows the abundant yellow
grasses usually associated with large bogland areas.
This
beautiful stretch of beach is close to the village of Dunfanaghy.
The north Donegal coastline is littered with many fine beach areas
second to none. In the far distance can be seen the Fanad Peninsula,
home of one branch of the Sweeney clan.
The
photograph on the left is a view of the village of Dunfanaghy from
the water. It is a small but picturesque village. The ground behind
gently rises up to Muckish. On the right we have a photograph of the
renowned Tramore Beach, very close to Dunfanaghy. This is 'McGinley
Country'. In the far distance is Bloody Foreland.
Since
around 1603/4 the McGinley clan have been associated with the south
west of Donegal, principly Meenacross and Meenacharvey. This photograph
is of the beautiful and dramatic Slieve League sea cliffs, the second
highest sea cliffs in Europe. It is a remote, wild and beatiful location.
This
great photograph is of The Poisoned Glen and Dunlewy. It was here
that the monks of the monastery of St Colm Cille on Tory fled when
they were attacked and pillaged by English soldiers in 1595. This
was a desolate, remote place inhabited by wolves. The monks stayed
here for a few years and their Order eventually died out. Some McGinleys
may also have fled here for safety during 1603/4.
This
photograph shows the beauty of Donegal at sunset. The island in the
distance is Inishboffin, a very popular tourist destination. There
are many small islands dotted around the north and west Donegal coast.
This
is a very dramatic photograph showing the 'wildness' of Donegal at
its best. A storm is approaching the headland at Bloody Foreland.
The meaning of the area is not clear. There may have been a battle
here in ancient times, hence the 'Bloody' part of the name. Some say
it is named after the blood red sunsets which can often be seen around
the area.
